More toils

Toil fitting number two

Taking a trip through London to the pattern cutters studio again today to see the new toils. It has amazed me how quickly they can make the patterns and put together the toils, there was over 6 all together again today. Yes they have a few pattern cutters and machinist, however Lalage is not the only client, so they must really work hard.

Not many alterations were needed today, but I still learnt a lot. Observing the way you can cut into a garment to let out the seams to add, in this case up to 4cm from the seams. 

What I fell in love with is the pinned darts you can see on the bodice of a dress on the right. The darts from the side seam to the bust point were already there, they have just increased it to reduce excess fabric. 

Originally Lalage did not want any more darts on the bodice, but soon realised there was no other choice, ultimatley adding darts from the pocket seam up to the bust point, coming from an angle. I loved this, its a style preference I have not seen, completely changing the look and shape of the bodice. As they did not make the dart too big, it still gives the bodice a loose fit.